The Ring of Kerry is Ireland‘s most famous scenic drive for good reason. This 111-mile circular route along the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry delivers everything travelers come to Ireland for: dramatic coastal cliffs, emerald mountains, ancient stone forts, and villages where time seems to move at its own pace.
But here’s what the postcards don’t tell you: the Ring gets crowded, tour buses clog the narrow roads in summer, and driving it the wrong direction can turn a dream route into a white-knuckle experience. With the right planning, though, you’ll understand why this loop has been captivating travelers for generations.
Which Direction to Drive the Ring
Always drive the Ring of Kerry counterclockwise, starting from Killarney and heading toward Killorglin first. This is the official direction for tour buses, which means you’ll be traveling toward oncoming buses rather than having them tailgate you on narrow roads with steep drop-offs.
The complete loop from Killarney goes through Killorglin, Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Sneem, and Kenmare before returning to Killarney. Budget a full day—while you could technically drive it in three hours, you’d miss everything that makes it special. Plan for six to eight hours with stops.
Start early. The tour buses typically depart Killarney between 9:30 and 10:00 a.m. If you’re on the road by 8:00 a.m., you’ll have the most photogenic spots to yourself and be ahead of the crowds all day.
Essential Stops Along the Way
Don’t just drive past these spots. In Killorglin, the first town on the route, grab coffee and walk across the bridge for views of the River Laune. The town is famous for the Puck Fair each August, but it’s worth a quick stop year-round.
Between Glenbeigh and Cahersiveen, pull over at Kells Bay House and Gardens. The wild gardens overlooking the bay are unlike anything else on the Ring, with tree ferns and subtropical plants thriving in the Gulf Stream climate.
Cahersiveen is often skipped, but stop at the Old Barracks Heritage Centre to learn about the area’s history. Just outside town, the Cahergall Stone Fort is an exceptionally well-preserved ring fort that’s free to visit and rarely crowded.
Waterville offers the best lunch break on the loop. This small village was once a favorite retreat of Charlie Chaplin, and you’ll find his statue on the seafront. Stop at The Lobster Bar for seafood chowder or fish and chips.
The stretch from Waterville to Sneem via Coomakista Pass delivers the Ring’s most dramatic coastal views. There’s a marked viewing point at the top—don’t skip it.
Beyond the Main Loop
If you have time, detour onto the Skellig Ring, a less-traveled route that branches off near Waterville. This 11-mile loop takes you through Ballinskelligs and Portmagee, the departure point for boat trips to Skellig Michael. Even if you’re not visiting the island, Portmagee is a perfect photo stop with its colorful houses and working harbor.
In Sneem, take fifteen minutes to walk through the village center. This picturesque town has two village greens and is known for its brightly painted houses. The sculpture park along the river is an unexpected bonus.
Before completing the loop back to Killarney, consider the detour through Moll’s Gap and Ladies View in Killarney National Park. Ladies View, named after Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting who were enchanted by the vista, offers stunning views over the Lakes of Killarney. There’s a viewing platform and a small café.
Practical Tips for Driving the Ring
Rent a car with adequate insurance—the roads are narrow, and stone walls are unforgiving. An automatic transmission will make the hills and constant gear changes less stressful if you’re not used to driving on the left.
Fill up your tank in Killarney before you start. While there are petrol stations along the route, they’re spread out and sometimes closed on Sundays.
Pack snacks and water. While there are plenty of villages with cafés and pubs, you’ll want flexibility to stop at viewpoints without worrying about the next meal.
The best months to drive the Ring are May, June, and September. July and August bring the biggest crowds and highest accommodation prices. Winter offers solitude but shorter days and frequent rain—though the dramatic weather can make for incredible photos.
Download an offline map before you leave. Mobile service is patchy in places, and you don’t want to miss turnoffs or viewing points because you’re relying on GPS.
Don’t feel pressured to complete the entire Ring if you’re short on time or the weather turns. The section from Killarney to Waterville captures the route’s essence, and you can return via the N70 through Kenmare for a shorter day.
The Ring of Kerry rewards those who take their time. Pull over often, talk to locals in village pubs, and remember that the journey itself is the destination. For more guides to Ireland’s most scenic routes and insider tips delivered to your inbox, subscribe to The Ultimate Ireland Travel Guide newsletter—one short story a day to help you plan the perfect Irish adventure.
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