While the Ring of Kerry draws the tour buses and the Dingle Peninsula claims the Instagram fame, the Beara Peninsula slips quietly along Ireland‘s southwest coast, straddling Cork and Kerry with mountains on one side and the Atlantic on the other. It’s rougher, wilder, and far less crowded—exactly what some travelers are looking for.
The Beara Way, a 120-mile driving loop, traces the peninsula’s edge through fishing villages, over mountain passes, and past Bronze Age ruins. If you want Ireland’s coastal drama without fighting for a parking spot, this is where you’ll find it.
The Drive: Glengarriff to Dursey Island
Start in Glengarriff, a harbor town on Bantry Bay where fuchsia hedges bloom along the roadways. From here, the R572 hugs the coast west toward Castletownbere, the peninsula’s largest town and one of Ireland’s major fishing ports. Stop at the SuperValu if you need supplies—services thin out quickly beyond here.
Past Castletownbere, the road narrows and climbs toward Allihies, a former copper mining village with pastel-painted houses and a small beach tucked beneath ochre cliffs. The old mine workings are still visible on the hillsides. From Allihies, continue west to Dursey Island, accessible only by Ireland’s only cable car. The six-person gondola sways across Dursey Sound—cattle and sheep ride it too. The island itself is home to about six year-round residents, a scattering of ruins, and hiking trails with views toward the Skellig Rocks.
The return route via the Healy Pass (R574) is the highlight. This corkscrew road climbs north over the Caha Mountains, topping out at 1,084 feet with views over Glenmore Lake and the ridges beyond. It’s narrow, steep, and completely worth it. Descend into County Kerry and loop back east toward Kenmare.
What to See Beyond the Road
The Beara Peninsula holds some of Ireland’s lesser-known ancient sites. The Uragh Stone Circle, hidden in a valley near Lauragh, sits beside a waterfall with 15 Bronze Age stones still standing. It’s reached by a short walk from a small parking area off the R571—look for the hand-painted sign.
Derreen Garden, a few miles east, is a subtropical woodland garden planted in the 1870s with tree ferns, rhododendrons, and walking paths that wind down to the sea. It’s open April through September, entry is around $8.
In Eyeries, one of Ireland’s most colorful villages, every house along the main street is painted a different bright shade. There’s not much here besides a post office, a pub, and the view—but that’s precisely the appeal.
Where to Eat and Stay
Castletownbere has the best range of services. MacCarthy’s Bar on the square serves seafood chowder and fish and chips—the boats unload just down the road. The Old Bakery is good for coffee and brown bread.
For accommodation, the Beara Coast Hotel in Castletownbere offers simple, comfortable rooms from around $110 per night. In Allihies, the Sea View House is a small guesthouse with harbor views and breakfast included, from around $95. If you’re after something more remote, Dzogchen Beara, a Tibetan Buddhist retreat center near Garranes, rents simple rooms to visitors and serves vegetarian meals—rates start around $70.
When to Go and Getting There
May through September offers the best weather and longer daylight, though even summer days on Beara can be moody. Autumn brings fewer visitors and dramatic light, but some attractions and guesthouses close by late October.
You’ll need a car. The loop from Glengarriff around the peninsula and back via Kenmare is roughly 85 miles and takes a full day if you stop frequently—longer if you linger. Viator offers day tours from Killarney and Kenmare that cover the Healy Pass and key stops, useful if you’d rather not drive the narrow mountain roads yourself.
The nearest towns with full services are Kenmare to the north and Bantry to the east, both about 30 minutes from Glengarriff. Cork Airport is 60 miles east; Kerry Airport is 50 miles north.
Pack layers, expect rain, and don’t rush. The Beara Peninsula rewards slow travel—pull over for the views, walk the beaches, and take the roads the buses can’t follow.
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