The Ring of Kerry is Ireland’s most celebrated scenic drive—a 111-mile loop around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry that threads through coastal villages, mountain passes, and some of the country’s most dramatic Atlantic views. While tour buses complete the circuit in a day, you’ll see more and stress less if you take two.
Here’s how to drive it counterclockwise (the way locals recommend), where to stop, and what not to miss.
Day One: Killarney to Portmagee
Start early from Killarney and head west on the N72 toward Killorglin, a small market town on the River Laune. If it’s a weekday morning, stop at Jacks Bakery on Lower Bridge Street for coffee and a scone before continuing.
The road climbs toward Glenbeigh, where you’ll catch your first wide views of Dingle Bay. Just past town, pull off at Rossbeigh Strand, a three-mile golden beach backed by dunes and mountains. It’s quiet, windswept, and perfect for stretching your legs.
Continue southwest through Cahersiveen, the largest town on the western stretch. The ruins of Ballycarbery Castle sit just outside town—free to explore, with thick stone walls and views across farmland to the sea.
Your first-day destination is Portmagee, a tiny fishing village painted in bright colors, perched on a narrow channel facing Valentia Island. Stay at The Moorings guesthouse or cross the bridge to Valentia and book a room at the Royal Valentia Hotel. Dinner at The Bridge Bar in Portmagee is the move—order the seafood chowder and whatever fish came in that day.
If the weather’s clear, drive or walk to the Valentia Island Slate Quarry before sunset. The old quarry has been reclaimed by water, and the light on the cliffs is stunning.
Day Two: Portmagee to Kenmare and Back to Killarney
Leave Portmagee by 9 a.m. and drive east toward Waterville, a sleepy seaside town where Charlie Chaplin used to vacation. Stop for a photo at the Chaplin statue on the seafront, then grab a breakfast bap at The Smugglers Inn.
The road from Waterville to Caherdaniel is one of the Ring’s finest stretches—narrow, winding, and carved into hillsides above the ocean. About halfway, pull over at the Coomakista Pass viewing area. On a clear day, you’ll see the Skellig Islands on the horizon.
Just past Caherdaniel, follow signs to Derrynane Beach. Park at Derrynane House (the former home of Irish political leader Daniel O’Connell) and walk the short trail through dunes to one of Kerry’s most beautiful beaches—white sand, turquoise water, and views of Abbey Island at low tide.
Continue east to Sneem, a tidy village with pastel-painted buildings and two village greens. It’s a good spot for tea and a sandwich at The Village Kitchen or Dan Murphy’s pub.
From Sneem, the road turns inland and climbs toward Moll’s Gap and Ladies View, two high-altitude viewpoints overlooking the Lakes of Killarney. Ladies View is the more famous of the two—named for Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting, who stopped here in 1861. There’s a small café and craft shop at the car park.
Descend into Killarney through Killarney National Park. If you have time, detour to Torc Waterfall for a 10-minute walk to the base of the falls. Otherwise, return your car in Killarney town and settle in for a pint at Courtney’s or The Laurels—you’ve earned it.
Practical Tips for Driving the Ring
Drive counterclockwise. Tour buses travel clockwise, and you’ll have an easier time passing oncoming traffic on the wider sections if you go the opposite way.
Start early or late in the season. July and August bring crowds and slow-moving coaches. May, June, and September offer long daylight and fewer buses. October can be beautiful but unpredictable.
Don’t skip Valentia Island or the Skellig Ring. The main Ring of Kerry is stunning, but the smaller loops—like the Skellig Ring between Waterville and Cahersiveen—are quieter and just as scenic.
Allow time for stops. The Ring isn’t about speed. Budget three to four hours of driving over two days, plus time for beaches, viewpoints, ruins, and meals.
Book ahead in summer. Killarney, Kenmare, and Portmagee fill up quickly. Kenmare is a charming alternative base if Killarney feels too busy.
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The Ring of Kerry is one piece of Ireland’s coastal puzzle—dramatic, accessible, and endlessly photogenic. If you’re planning a trip and want one short, practical story a day in your inbox, subscribe to The Ultimate Ireland Travel Guide newsletter. No fluff, just the Ireland worth finding.