The Ring of Kerry is Ireland‘s most celebrated scenic drive—a 111-mile loop around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry that takes in mountains, coastline, lakes, and villages. It’s deservedly popular, which means tour buses and traffic in summer. But with the right timing and a few strategic stops, you’ll understand why this route has been drawing travelers for generations.
Drive Counterclockwise to Beat the Buses
The single most important piece of advice: drive the Ring counterclockwise, starting from Killarney and heading toward Killorglin first. Tour buses are required to travel clockwise, so you’ll be going the opposite direction and won’t get stuck behind a convoy on narrow roads.
Start early—by 8:30 or 9:00 a.m.—and you’ll have the best light and fewer cars. The full loop takes about three and a half hours of pure driving, but plan for six to eight hours with stops. You can easily fill a full day.
The route follows the N70 and N71 roads in a rough circle: Killarney to Killorglin, Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Sneem, Kenmare, and back to Killarney. Every segment offers something different.
Where to Stop Along the Ring
Don’t just drive. The magic of the Ring is in getting out of the car. Here are the stops worth your time:
- Killorglin: A market town famous for the Puck Fair in August, but worth a quick coffee stop year-round at Bianconi or Jack’s Bakery.
- Glenbeigh: Stop at Rossbeigh Strand, a sweeping beach with views across Dingle Bay. It’s often empty, even in summer.
- Cahersiveen: The largest town on the western edge of the loop, with two atmospheric ruins nearby—Ballycarbery Castle and the Cahergall Stone Fort, both free and open to explore.
- Waterville: A low-key seaside village where Charlie Chaplin spent summers. The beach walk is beautiful, and The Lobster Bar serves excellent seafood.
- Ladies View: Just north of Kenmare on the return leg, this roadside viewpoint overlooks the Lakes of Killarney. It’s touristy but genuinely stunning.
If you have time, detour south to Portmagee and take the Skellig Ring, a smaller loop that skirts the coast and offers views of the Skellig Islands. It adds about 11 miles but avoids traffic and feels more remote.
Kenmare: The Best Lunch Stop
Kenmare sits at the southern point of the loop and makes the ideal lunch break. It’s a heritage town with colorful shopfronts, strong food, and a more relaxed vibe than Killarney.
For lunch, try The Boathouse Bistro at the pier for local seafood, or The Mews for something more casual. If you’re packing a picnic, Jam on Henry Street has excellent sandwiches and baked goods to go.
Kenmare is also a good place to overnight if you want to split the Ring over two days and explore the Beara Peninsula the next morning.
Practical Details and Timing
The Ring of Kerry is open year-round, but the best months are May, June, and September—long days, decent weather, and fewer crowds than July and August. In winter, you’ll have the roads nearly to yourself, though some cafés and attractions close, and daylight is short.
There are petrol stations in Killorglin, Cahersiveen, Waterville, and Kenmare. Fill up before you start—rural stations can close unexpectedly.
Most travelers base themselves in Killarney and do the Ring as a day trip. If you prefer a quieter base, stay in Kenmare or Sneem instead. Viator offers guided coach tours if you’d rather not drive, though you lose the flexibility to stop where you want.
Parking is free at most viewpoints and beaches, but spaces fill quickly at Ladies View and Moll’s Gap by midday in summer. Arrive early or late in the day.
The roads are narrow, winding, and shared with cyclists, sheep, and tractors. Drive slowly, pull over to let faster traffic pass, and don’t attempt it if you’re not comfortable with tight turns and stone walls inches from your mirrors.
One more tip: if the weather turns—and it will—don’t abandon the plan. The Ring of Kerry in mist and rain has its own kind of drama. Just pack layers and waterproofs.
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